Chengyang Wind and Rain Bridge

The Chengyang Wind and Rain Bridge rises majestically from emerald-green rice paddies in northeastern Guangxi, a few hours away from Guilin. This elaborate covered bridge is typical of the wind-and-rain bridges built by the Dong people in southwest China. It sits among a cluster of Dong villages, providing a good base for exploring rural China.

The Chengyang Wind and Rain Bridge | Surrounding Villages | Food and Accommodations | Transportation | Other sites in Guangxi

The Chengyang Wind and Rain Bridge

The bridge boasts five separate pagoda-like structures in its 78-meter span. All the more impressive when you consider that it was built 100 years ago without the benefit of nails. Walking across the bridge is nothing special — unless you’re looking for mass-produced “local” souvenirs —, but from afar it is beautiful. For more information on wind and rain bridges, read Amy Tan’s National Geographic article on a Dong village in Guizhou.

Entrance to the bridge costs 60 RMB (30 RMB for students), but the fee can easily be avoided if you approach the bridge from the other side of the river. Buses from Sanjiang drop off passengers right in front of the ticket booth.

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Surrounding Villages

The hours of transportation needed to get to Chengyang would probably not be justified by the bridge alone. But it provides a great jumping-off point for a walk through several nearby villages, which are mostly inhabited by members of the Dong ethnic minority. Every village has its own drum tower — look for the tallest many-roofed structure in town — which serves as the community’s main meeting place. Wandering from town to town provides a fascinating series of glimpses of rural life, from live pigs for sale in the market to chickens wandering freely through village lanes.

From the bus stop, walk past the bridge and wander. Every so often, you will run into maps to give you an idea of exactly where you are.

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Food and Accommodation

As when you visit the Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces, you’ll probably end up eating most of your meals at your hostel or inn. There are a profusion of places to stay in Ma’an, all fairly similar-looking.

Chengyang Bridge National Hostel

This hostel has an optimal location for bridge-viewing. We ate dinner on the patio while gazing at the nicely illuminated bridge, and when we woke up, we were able to sneak onto the bridge via the back entrance, neatly avoiding the entrance fee. The staff The rooms themselves are spare and clean, though the insect life was rather plentiful. (Valiant and successful war was waged against an astonishingly large spider.)

We paid 60 RMB for a triple room with its own bathroom, but prices are flexible. Dinner (three veggie dishes plus rice) cost 30 RMB.

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Transportation

The Chengyang Bridge, Ma’an and other surrounding villages can be reached via the town of Sanjiang (三江). Buses leave for Sanjiang from Guilin’s main bus station and from Longsheng. From Guilin, the ride costs 31 RMB and takes 3 1/2 hours; from Longsheng, it costs 15 RMB and takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Once you get to Sanjiang, you will need to cross the river and get to the west bus station. (The Longsheng and Guilin buses use the east station.) Look for buses to Linxi (林溪) and tell the driver you are going to the Chengyang Qiao. Buses leave every half-hour for Linxi and cost 5 RMB. The ride to Chengyang takes another half-hour. If you miss the last bus (5:30 p.m.), rickshaw drivers congregate outside the east bus station in Sanjiang. Aim to pay 10-15 RMB for a ride to the bridge. They may try to take you to a hotel that they know, but if you are insistent they will take you where you want to go.