Japan: How Much Does It Really Cost?

by Jessica Marsden on March 8, 2010

This is the first of three posts on traveling in Japan on a budget. Come back tomorrow and Wednesday for parts two and three.

One of my biggest concerns before leaving for Japan last month was how much it would cost. The country is famously expensive, and since I make my living teaching in China, I’m not exactly rolling in dough. My traveling companion is in the same situation, so we knew we would have to really stick to a budget. And we basically succeeded — in the end, I spent a bit less than I had expected/feared.

Japan Travel Budget

Excluding the cost of getting to Japan, the total cost of the 15-day trip was ¥146,187***, or about $1,640 (USD). The Japan Rail Pass was a fixed cost, and on Wednesday, I’ll look at whether it paid off or not. Taking that out of the equation, I was spending an average of ¥4,000 ($45) per day on sightseeing and daily expenditures and another ¥2,600 ($29.50) on accommodation. That turned out to be a bit less than had been suggested by online sources. Posts on Lonely Planet’s Thorntree forum suggest a daily budget of ¥90,000 to ¥110,000 per day, excluding the cost of the Rail Pass.

Here’s what we did to keep costs down:

  • Food & Drink: I spent an average of ¥2,960 each day on food.
    • We ate virtually every breakfast at Japan’s ubiquitous convenience stores, where it was possible to fill up (even for a very hungry boy) for less than ¥500. I will admit that I caved a couple of times and had Starbucks because it’s something I miss terribly on in Changsha.
    • Although we had a few more expensive meals, we also ate a lot of noodles and rice bowls for lunch and dinner. And when we wanted to have something pricier, like sushi, we would eat a little less than we wanted and fill up somewhere else on cheap food. (Probably more important for the aforementioned hungry boy than it was for me.)
    • We didn’t drink any alcohol.
    • I couldn’t cut my coffee habit just for this trip, but I did drink a lot of instant and canned coffee. Cafes charge ¥300-¥400 even for a plain coffee, making McDonald’s look like a bargain at ¥220 for a medium.
  • Hostels: On average, our hostel cost ¥2,581 per person per night.
    • Japan has a ton of youth hostels, and while they are expensive compared to those elsewhere in Asia, they are still the cheapest option. On the plus side, each place we stayed was scrupulously clean and had a great staff.
    • Prices can range considerably, especially for private rooms, so it pays to comb through Hostelworld and Hostelbookers pretty carefully. This is especially true in Tokyo and Kyoto.
    • We did opt to spend ¥200-¥300 more per person per night for our own room (with a shared bathroom) instead of staying in dorms.
  • Intracity Transportation: Our daily intracity transportation costs varied wildly from place to place. Some cities were very walkable (Hiroshima, Takayama) while others required that we take buses or subways everywhere (Kyoto, Osaka). In Tokyo, which is definitely not walkable on a large scale, we took advantage of the Japan Rail Pass as much as possible and got around the city mainly on its intracity JR lines.

***Yes, I really did write down every yen I spent in Japan and then typed it all into Excel to produce this graph. I was pretty careful, but it’s possible that I forgot about a water bottle or two over the course of two weeks. The act of writing everything down had its own budget-enforcing effect — I definitely thought a little more carefully about whether or not I should make certain purchases.

Related posts:

  1. Japan Rail Pass: To Buy or Not to Buy?
  2. Two Days on the Sea of Japan
  3. Coffee in the Jelly, Jelly in Your Coffee
  4. 3 Hours on the World’s Fastest Train
  5. Expense Report: Ten Days in Sichuan

{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }

Akila April 25, 2010 at 12:25 am

Jess, This is a fantastic guide to how much you spent. I am having a hard time finding hostels with cheap rooms (especially in Tokyo) but you have given me hope. I am also struggling on whether to spend the money to buy the RailPass or not but I think you make a really good point in your next post that you end up going to more places and have more flexibility. We definitely appreciate flexibility in our travels.

Jess April 25, 2010 at 8:56 am

Yes, it was a struggle! We found the Sakura House in Kyoto (on Hostelbookers) and Khaosan Tokyo Ninja (on Hostelworld) to be relatively cheap options for those places. But we still had to readjust our idea of how much a hostel should cost. I had to try not to think what we would be getting in SE Asia for that money!

Kari June 26, 2010 at 1:39 am

This is really great! I’m planning to go on budget trip to Japan in autumn and this pie-chart is very helpful. The JR Rail Pass is really included in my budget (I’m still deciding though whether to get the 7-day pass or the 14-day pass). I checked the hostels you mentioned and Khaosan Tokyo Ninja really looks very, very convenient. If it’s not too much to ask, can you send me your itinerary details? I’m at a loss on how to squeeze everything in 15 days. Thanks!

Jessica Marsden June 27, 2010 at 5:08 pm

Here’s the itinerary we followed:

February 11 — Osaka
February 12 — Kyoto
February 13 — Kyoto
February 14 — Kyoto
February 15 — Nara (day trip fm Kyoto)
February 16 — To Hiroshima (via Himeji Castle)
February 17 — Hiroshima
February 18 — Fukuoka
February 19 — To Tokyo (5 hrs)
February 20 — Tokyo
February 21 — Tokyo
February 22 — Tokyo
February 23 — Takayama
February 24 — Takayama
February 25 — To Osaka, via Nagoya
February 26 — Boat from Osaka to Shanghai

In retrospect I would have skipped Fukuoka and added that day onto Kyoto or Hiroshima (in order to go to Miyajima, which got rave reviews from a friend who visited in April). Hope that helps!

Kari June 27, 2010 at 9:30 pm

Thank you so much! This is exactly what I’m looking for! I can now make a checklist of the places and budget the time wisely. Seeing how JR’s extensive network can cover these areas, I guess this means we’ll buy the 14-day JR Pass. I’ve also checked Miyajima and it does look more interesting (well, for me, being a nature buff) than Fukuoka. By the way, were you still able to use your JR Pass on Feb 25 – this being the 15th day (I’m assuming that you got the Pass “activated” on Feb 11)?

Jessica Marsden June 27, 2010 at 11:00 pm

We actually didn’t activate our passes until the 12th for that reason. You only get 14 days, including the day when you first use your pass. If we had activated our passes on the 11th, then the last day we could have used it was the 24th.

Walid Ahmed July 22, 2010 at 4:46 am

Dear Jessica,

I would really appreciate if you give more information about where and how I can book the tickets of the ferry from shanghai to osaka.

I’ve heard that most of the hostels in japan are for the youth. I am planning to travel with my father who is 48. will there be any problem if my father stays in a hostel with me?

From the information above, I’ve noted that you went there in feb. Did you see the cherry blossom?

Thanks.

Jessica Marsden July 22, 2010 at 5:27 am

We booked the ferry tickets online here: http://www.shanghai-ferry.co.jp/english/ We were able to pay for the tickets in cash when we boarded.

Although hostels are often called “youth” hostels, they are open to everybody. I’ve stayed at them with my parents several times.

We were a little too early for the cherry blossoms, but we did see some plum blossoms in Tokyo.

Walid Ahmed July 24, 2010 at 11:14 pm

Thank you, Jessica….If you need any information about travel to Malaysia, Singapore, India and Bangladesh(my home country); feel free to ask me.

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