Just looking at this photo makes my heart ache. Changsha is slowly warming up from its winter chill, but the sun is still only an occasional visitor. I crave the hot, dry air of the Gansu desert, the feeling of the sun beating down on my shoulders and sand under my feet. I do not, however, crave another opportunity to pay 120 RMB to actually go onto the dunes. Whoever manages the site is clearly banking on tourists fresh from the magnificent Mogao Caves, for whom 120 RMB will look like a pittance compared to the 180 RMB entrance price for the caves. But looking at the dunes through the fence is free, and will leave enough money in your pocket for a beer at dinner.