Each morning, Malaysia’s kopitiams — coffee shops — are abuzz with clinking cups, rustling newspapers and the hum of voices speaking Malaysian and Chinese. Just one or two ringgit buys a small mug of rich, strong kopi, which comes with a healthy dose of condensed milk. (If you don’t want the milk, ask for a kopi o.) Groups of men — and it is mostly men — gather every morning in these shops, lingering over their coffee and discussing the news.
After three nights in Kota Bharu, we were regulars at the kopitiam across the street from our hotel. On the first day we were there, we were taken under wing by an elderly retired police officer who spoke excellent English. He ordered our coffee and our toast with kaya — coconut jam — and introduced us to his friends. That morning, and for two days after that, we breakfasted with his rotating cast of friends. For the most part, they did not speak English, but they welcomed us anyway. We answered their questions about China and the U.S.; they explained Malaysian politics, told us where to buy batik, and advised us on the safest bus company for our journey to Penang.
It took me a few days to figure out why the coffee we were drinking was so much better than the coffee I drink every day at home. Even before the condensed milk was stirred in, the kopi was thicker and richer. It turns out that before the beans are ground, they are fried in butter and sugar. No wonder it is so delicious… The coffee is also steeped, rather than percolated, adding to its stronger taste.
Naturally, a few bags of Malaysian kopi powder and a can of condensed milk made their way into my suitcase, and I’ve been periodically enjoying it as a special afternoon treat. It can’t live up to the original, but if I close my eyes, I can almost imagine that I am back in a kopitiam, about to dig into a flaky roti or head off to batik class. But mainly, I can’t wait to go back to Malaysia in November and resample the real thing.
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