Don't plan to visit Tiananmen Square on Oct. 1!
The Chinese blogosphere is abuzz with news about the impending National Day holiday, which this year marks the 60th anniversary of the founding of the PRC. Last week, central Beijing closed down for rehearsals of the parade that will take place at Tiananmen Square. Chinese news agencies reported that the military would be celebrating the anniversary with a display of new missile technology. And tourists learned that they will not be allowed anywhere near the parade itself: it will be open to ticket holders only.
Still, expect sites in Beijing — and really, anywhere in China — to be packed for the holiday. This year, October 1 falls close to the traditional Mid-Autumn Day Festival (Oct. 3), so the government decided to combined the two holidays to form an extra-long Golden Week. Most Chinese workers will have eight days off, from Oct. 1 to Oct. 8. Getting train tickets will become nearly impossible as Chinese citizens take the rails en masse.
Most expats I know are planning to get the heck out of dodge, heading for Thailand, Taiwan and even Russia. I’ll be meeting my mom in Malaysia for a whirlwind tour of the country’s culinary offerings and a few days on the beach. But if you want to stay in China, there are a few things you can do to improve your chances of a pleasant holiday. First off, don’t try to go to Beijing! You won’t be able to see the celebrations, traffic will be obstructed and the crowds will be immense. Instead, seek out destinations that are off-the-beaten-path and less popular with Chinese travelers. You might head to:
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Wenhai Ecolodge, Yunnan Province: This is where I spent last year’s October holiday. There were never more than four other guests there while we were, so we had the nearly-undivided attention of the lodge’s staff. The location offers bountiful opportunities for hiking and exploring minority villages. Although the “eco” qualifications of the lodge have been called into question, the natural beauty of the surroundings still warrants a visit. You’ll have to pass through Lijiang to get here, but if you’re desperate to avoid crowds, you can keep your time in town to a minimum.
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Langmusi, Gansu Province: Trekking outside Langmusi was was one of the highlights of my recent trip through western China. The grasslands are, without a doubt, the emptiest place I’ve been in China, and spending a night or two in a nomad family’s tent is a great way to experience a side of Tibetan culture. The treks are not unpopular with Chinese tourists — and the trekking agency’s website warns that prices will be 50 RMB per day higher during the holiday — but the nature of the activity means that you are still unlikely to see many other people while you are actually on the trail. Once you get back to town, you may see a few more people than usual in cafes and hostels. But the difficulty of getting to Langmusi should keep the crowds to a minimum.
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Dehang, Hunan Province: Dehang is a quaint Miao farming village in western Hunan Province.The karst scenery is spectacular, and you can take beautiful, leisurely walks through the rice paddies and around the mountains. I visited the village last year during the Dragon Boat Festival, another time when a vast proportion of the country was traveling. In nearby Fenghuang, it was impossible to get a hotel room, even though rates had skyrocketed. Despite that, I hardly saw any other guests in Dehang, especially after a couple of tour buses left at 4 p.m.
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