Our trip through western China is progressing, and going well. So well that Internet access and blogging hasn’t been a top priority. But in case any readers are following in our footsteps, I wanted to write a quick post about actually getting to Langmusi and Xiahe in the Tibetan area of southern Gansu Province.
Both Langmusi and Xiahe were closed to foreign visitors after the protests in Tibet in 2008. They officially reopened to foreigners this summer, but some of the most convenient ways to get to them are still closed. Don’t take no for an answer, though — you’re definitely allowed to go to both Xiahe and Langmusi, it just takes some patience, and a fair amount of time on the bus.
As of last week, foreigners were not able to purchase tickets to Langmusi or Xiahe from Lanzhou. Instead, you need to go first from Lanzhou to Hezuo, about 4-5 hours south. From Hezuo, you can get connecting buses to Xiahe (1 hour, departing frequently) or to Langmusi (3-4 hours, departing at 7 am and 12:20 pm). At the bus station in Lanzhou, be prepared with two copies each of your passport information page and your Chinese visa or residence permit. (Getting from Xiahe to Langmusi, or vice versa, is not a problem.)
On our way from Lanzhou to Langmusi, we were initially told to go to Linxia and meet the Lanzhou to Langmusi bus there when they stopped for lunch. But despite the bus driver’s promises to the contrary, there were no seats left. As a result, we got to Hezuo after the last bus to Langmusi had departed. Rather than spend the night in Hezuo, the bus station in Hezuo directed us to take a bus to Gehai (not sure about the spelling on that, unfortunately), where we caught a minibus to Langmusi. Ask the attendants at the Hezuo bus station for help pursuing that option.
We arrived in Xiahe this evening, and are planning an early-morning visit to the monastery tomorrow. Updates on the Dunhuang caves and trekking in Langmusi will have to wait till I get back to Changsha and can post some of the many, many photos I’ve taken.
Next stop: The Labrang Monastery, Xiahe
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